Red Art Shiraz (Cellar Release) 2004, Rojomoma

A savoury, cedary, chocolatey nose is followed by a lovely, satisfying completeness, reminiscent of mature Châteauneuf du Pape. A surprisingly subtle and nuanced wine – particularly for the Barossa – it has lovely, savoury, gamey, woody complexity, and an impressively sustained finish. It also has restrained alcohol for the region (just over 14%, when 15%+ is the norm), as well as fresh, balancing acidity. Both alcohol and acidity do their job, but neither sticks out: the overall effect is integrated, harmonious, beautifully-balanced and effortlessly drinkable!