Farrago Chardonnay 2021, Kooyong

‘Farrago’ comes across as more Puligny-like than ‘Faultline’ with citric, lime zest notes under a halo of feathery oak. This sets up a surprise when taking a sip, because it is actually a lot bigger, juicier and more powerful than the nose suggests, with serious concentration and length on the finish. Intense yet finely-balanced, this is utterly awesome to drink now, and should theoretically age magnificently, if you have the willpower to keep your hands off it.