Baluchin Barbaresco DOCG Riserva 2013, Cocito


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Ezio Cocito farms a small, 1.2 hectare vineyard at 400m elevation – one of the highest in Barbaresco. The high altitude leads to a lively freshness in this Riserva wine, allowing it to support long ageing, and it is typically released at 9-10 years of age. This has matured to a beautiful, transparent garnet colour. It has an astonishingly complex bouquet of walnuts, black truffle, beeswax furniture polish, roasted chestnut, vanilla, fragrant hay, old leather, prune and fig—magnificently complex. Almost unbelievably, further nuances emerge as it sits in the glass: frosted rosehips, musk and honey. On the palate, there is still substantial tannin, but this is mature, velvet-textured and contributes to the enjoyment of the wine. Acidity provides freshness without sharpness, and it’s worth taking time to savour the hints of beef stock, fenugreek and black tea that play out on the finish. Fully ready to drink, this should continue on for several more years. Cocito is a close friend of La Spinetta’s Giorgio Rivetti, and the wine benefits from his oenological expertise.